Share Your Seams
Wednesday’s post seemed to strike a nerve with some people. To clarify, I’m not telling anyone what kind of sweater she should or shouldn’t knit. Make a top-down raglan with 6 inches of positive ease in Red Heart Super Saver if you want. You, alone, are the master of your knitting. I just expressed my opinion that good-looking, well-fitting, top-down raglans are few and far between. I was curious as to why people knit them when a seamed garment, almost without exception, gives a better fit.
Several people confessed an inability to execute a nice mattress stitch seam. Thus, it would seem, some knitters are making a trade-off between not-perfect fit and sloppy looking seams. I can totally relate to this explanation since I am needle-and-thread challenged myself. But, it might help to think of seaming as a knitting skill that improves with practice and one which is undeniably worth learning because it opens up a whole universe of new knitting opportunities. Would any knitter say she refrains from casting on because her cast-on stitches are sloppy and uneven? Well . . . um . . . no, since that attitude would surely limit the number of things you can knit.
Seriously, though, there are some wonderful videos, blogs, and books that do an excellent job of explaining how to work a perfect mattress stitch. I think Theresa’s article for Knitty, has some wonderful, clear photos that show how to sew straight seams. Roz has this great blog post showing how to sew a vertical edge to a horizontal edge–which is what you must do at the top of a sleeve cap. Marie Grace has a comprehensive post on how to sew a set-in sleeve. Click on her photos to enlarge them.
As a way to encourage you, my dear reader, to perfect your mattress stitch, I offer up a wooly carrot.
Wanna win this lovely skein of hand-dyed, lace-weight merino?
It’s easy. Simply leave a comment to this post with (1) a link to a photo of a seam that you proudly joined with mattress stitch and/or (2) a tip or trick to help a newbie perfect her seaming technique or a link to a good source of information on seaming with mattress stitch. I’ll pick a winner at random next Tuesday. (FYI, my spam filter blocks comments that contain links and holds them in moderation. It might take a couple of hours ’til I have a chance to approve your message.)
ETA: Any photo of any seam will do. Take one of something you seamed long ago, upload it to Flickr, and post the Flickr link in the comments.  Perfect or not perfect—all seams are welcome here.
Here’s my entry–the armhole of my Gathered Pulli.
If I can do it, you can do it.
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56 comments Susan | contests, knitting, sweaters
I agree with you. EZ ranglan sweaters do not fit the arm circle at all. I have yet to see one that gives proper ease at the armhole. It might be EZ but it is not perfect and it looks like the person is hanging from it. Also part of the garment shaping are the seams, the shoulder seams give support to the sweater and the sides shape the torso.
As i still consider myself a newbie with only 3 years (almost) under my knitting belt i would never dare yet critique one knit style from another, just my lil ole opinion on my experience with it. I am by far an expert… besides there are so many ways and everyone will then interpret it to their way of thinking/stitching. Silly if anyone got upset with your views. Oh well….off to look for a decent seam pic on one of the items ans will post it on my blog!
I would have to disagree with the generalisation that seamed garments have better fitting sleeves/underarms… There are so many ways to do these things, that it all comes down to the skill of the knitter to adjust a pattern for “real” fit. No pattern no matter how well written can fit everyone. But everyone also has their own style that they like, and even when it comes to fitting, some like it tight, some like it baggy. I still love my top down anything knitted, no matter if it’s raglan or set in sleeve. (Yes I’ve got one example of a top down set in sleeve.) I like how it fits and feels.
Maybe we can all do it, but not necessarily as beautifully as you. My seams aren’t always perfect, but they’re not bad. And I don’t mind doing them.
I don’t need any more yarn, so I will not link and try to qualify.
I do like the magic of the mattress stitch but I still am puzzled over what’s the very best selvedge to use to get the best mattress stitch? Some designers say garter, some stockinette. I am still trying to figure out what’s best for *me*.
I am proud of my seaming on a charcoal sweater I knit for my husband. It was very hard to get the sleeves seamed right — took several attempts. Lesson learned: don’t settle for lousy seaming, but pick out the seam and do it again until it looks right.
What I didn’t realize until I was sewing was how doggone hard it is to seam something black. I could only work on it on very sunny days, while sitting at a south facing window.
The thing that was most helpful for me was The Knitter’s Handy Book of Finishing Techniques. There are great pictures of a variety of seams and I finally “got it” when I read that book. I don’t think I’ve ever posted photos of a wonderful seam, though, so I’ll have to be out of the contest.
I am glad you knit Sabine first. I have been tempted but wondered about the fit when I was done.
I am making Gisela and am almost done. Hmm…wish I had a photo of a good seam but alas, I do not.
Happy knitting.
Is there a parallel universe contest to show the crappiest seams, and win the Red Heart Super Saver?
When doing mattress stitch on anything with ribbing, I start at the top of the ribbing instead of at the bottom of the piece. That way I can make sure that the top of the ribbing matches up nicely. Also, on most everything I go under two strands of yarn instead of just one, and make sure to stagger it by one so that it lines up better. (Not sure if that makes sense, but I don’t have any pictures of my seams to show!)
You’re on — and I’ll post a seam! You’ve got me thinking and that’s always a good thing.
Knitting From the Top by Barbara Walker has instructions on how to knit a sweater in one piece, from the top down with set-in sleeves. I tired it once, but had to give up when I discovered I was allergic to the yarn I was using. I’m looking forward to giving it another try.
My advice for getting the hang of seaming–knit a blanket/afghan in pieces that need to be seamed. There’s less need for perfection since a blanket doesn’t have to fit or hang right, like a sweater does. Plus, such a project would need so much seaming that by the time you were done, you’d feel like an expert.
I will have to take a look at what I have at home and come back to enter the contest. Or I could finally put together that cardigan I knit months ago
Thanks for posting the photos of your Gathered Pulli! I’m actually knitting that pattern now, and am a little nervous about the seaming – this is my first sweater with seams.
I would love to win that gorgeous yarn! But since I have no pictures of seams to share, here’s a link to instructions instead.
The instructions are from Knitty, and there are some very helpful pictures!
Eek! My link didn’t show up in my comment! Hmm, well the tutorial is in the Spring ‘04 issue of Knitty, if anyone wants to look at it.
The thing that got me over my dislike of seaming was a half day workshop at the LYS on finishing techniques. Learning to do it right took a lot of the pain out of it. Figure it in as part of the process of knitting the project, go slowly, and don’t (as a friend of mine does) chant “I hate seaming” the whole time!
Ditto Carole’s recommendation of Nancie Wiseman’s Finishing Techniques, that’s my go-to reference for all sorts of things. Even though I look a bit dorky in the bathroom mirror photo, I finished a Scoop du Jour, which is seamed, and it fits perfectly, here:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2286/2522888318_0b4715cf76_o.jpg
Here’s mine http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1259/516/1600/inner_seam.jpg, it’s the first seam I ever sewed and I was just so darn proud *smile* It’s also the only one I ever took a picture of. This was a set-in sleeve with Rowan Felted Tweed.
I also agree that top-down raglans just don’t look nice. I only make them for children because anything is cute on them but it’s my opinion that they do not flatter fully grown adults… or at least not as much as a structured garment.
1= link to the seam from my Dad’s vest I finished this past summer. http://bp0.blogger.com/_ysVXWT2261Y/SAo9ORmbpxI/AAAAAAAADmA/S1LaJ4cVnYA/s1600-h/IMG_3048a.jpg
2= believe in yourself, and take a deep breath and give yourself some time to go slowly. Stop along the way to double check how it’s going and enjoy the knowledge that you can do it, too!
I’ll be doing more later today on Mom’s sweater. Breathe, it’s supposed to be relaxing!
Here is my only mattress stitch picture – I love mattress stitching, but I also love NOT doing it when possible
http://www.patsknittingandquilting.com/2007/june/images/mattressstitch.jpg
I’m one of those who learned how to sew before I learned how to knit, so I don’t mind seaming. I’m also one who likes quick projects, so I don’t often knit sweaters:)
The book “When Bad Things Happen to Good Knitters” by Marion Edmonds and Ahza Moore has what I found to be extremely clear directions for seaming. The cover how to seam various stitches and edges both side to side and end to end. They have a great explanation of the importance of the first stitch in a seam.
As a new knitter, I have shyed away from seaming. But once I did it, following directions from Knitty, I was happy with the results. I still have yet to do a sweater with seams, though….
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring04/mattress.html
When I sew a knitted garment together using the mattress stitch, I first put markers around both pieces that will “match up” appropriately when seaming. The underarm bindoffs on both pieces must be sewn together, the increases must match up on each piece, the midpoints on the shoulders should be matched, then everything else gets eased in around the armhole. If it is a straight seam, I put markers every 25 rows to match each piece being seamed. Clear as mud, eh?
This is so timely – thank you! I think I may actually be able to move forward on my Central Park Hoodie now.
Two photos, same sweater. The first is the side seam, I’ve separated the seam a bit so you can see that it is in fact, a seam. The second is one of the armhole seams.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3282/3048809008_0429dd0af4.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3021/3047969259_41b6e3545b.jpg
I think there are some very good reasons to do sweaters in the round, but if you are just knitting them in the round to avoid seaming, you’re missing out on a multitude of great patterns. My advice is to do what you do when you are learning any new technique. Knit swatches, then seam them. Keep doing it until you can do it well.
Oh, and when you are doing shaping of your knitted pieces, do that shaping at least one stitch in from the edge, to make the later seaming easier. So, if you are doing your armhole decreases, and the instructions say to decrease one stitch at each end of the row, knit a stitch first, THEN do your decrease, then knit across the row. It makes a world of difference.
I’m going to go with option #2 and give you a link to my favourite mattress stitch photos, here at the mason dixon blog.
http://www.masondixonknitting.com/archives/2004_11.html#000747
My Brigitta sweater is 95% done — but for the last month has needed sleeve #2 set in. What’s stopping me is that (1) it’s bulky singles yarn, (2) the sleeve inset shaping is designed for easy knitting but not easy fitting and (3) I need to wet-block, because steam-blocking didn’t do it for me. Actually, from the two patterns I’ve made from cocoknits, shaping is simplified instead of detailed for fit. If I didn’t have sewing experience, I wouldn’t know that the top of the sleeve cap usually doesn’t match the shoulder seam.
When I’m seaming a sleeve in I take my yarn and start at the top of the sleeve with half of the yarn and seam down to the bottom then I go back to the top and do it again. That way if there is any wonkyness it’s down in the armpit area and not all on one side.
I think the biggest problem with the fit of a top-down raglan is the fact that it’s a raglan! The back neck of the sweater needs to be higher than the front neck, which would make the back edge of the raglan sleeve have to be longer than the front edge in order for all the seams to match. Most top-down (and even most bottom-up) raglans don’t take this into account, and make the front and back basically interchangeable. This is where the crappy fit comes from.
I think Barbara Walker addressed this in her “Knitting from the Top” (I know I learned it somewhere… but then again, I learned to sew about the same time I learned to knit (way back in the Dark Ages), so I learned a lot about patternmaking in both media simultaneously.)
I love the mattress stitch. Back in the aforementioned Dark Ages (I think we knit mammoth hair on needles made of dinosaur bones, but I may be wrong…), we were taught to backstitch every seam. Mattress stitch is SO much prettier!
Here’s a link to my favorite mattress-stitching reference:
http://www.studioknits.com/booktoc.htm
Chapter 21 on vertical seams is the one for mattress stitch, but this site is full of good information. (I especially like chapter 22, on seams where the stitches meet at right angles.)
As for the main point about top-down raglans–my question is, which is the real problem, the raglan part or the top-down part? Because raglans can be knit from the bottom up in one piece, or in pieces and seamed–do you think that would make them fit any better than if they’re knitted top-down? And top-down sweaters can be knitted with other sleeve styles, such as saddle or set-in or even drop shoulder, which would obviously alter the fit. (Not to mention that different sweater shapes fit differently on different body types.)
Practice helps! I wish I’d had Rox’s tutorial for my first few seams, but I managed with Nancie Wiseman’s Finishing Techniques book to learn how to attach sleeves to the body.
The second and third pictures in this post both show side seams in one of my recent project. : )
I think that top down sweaters can look sort of “barrel” like in the torso without the side seams. They look great on kids because kids are sort of roly poly anyway. As far as the back of the neck not coming up far enough, there is a Knitting Pure and Simple pattern that addresses this. I’ve knit that pattern several time for grandsons and it works. I’ll be watching comments to direct me to some good methods of seaming because I don’t do it well.
I love mattress stitch seams. I had a hard time doing good seams until I learned to identify individual stitches and could recognize how they matched up the best for a seam. http://www.flickr.com/photos/15362555@N08/3048667101/ I also enjoy kitchener seams. http://www.flickr.com/photos/15362555@N08/3049520418/ This is a seam before I learned to use the mattress stitch. http://www.flickr.com/photos/15362555@N08/3049526012/
I hate sewing up so am always interested to read other peoples hints and tips to get it right, so thank you for posting this.
This is my best attempt yet, it took me the longest time to do but it was worth it, I do love this cardi but my next one will be knitted in one piece as the sewing up was insane
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31739112@N00/2702773043/sizes/l/in/set-72157607776847132/
While I have not done a great deal of seaming, I have found that it helps me to periodically (every 10 or 20 row, or whatever seems to work) attach a safety pin or little padlock-looking stitch marker periodically to the first and last stitches of a row. On sleeves I also try to use the same size or color on that row, just to give me an added visual cue.
I found this tutorial very helpful when I needed it.
http://dawnprickett.blogspot.com/2006/02/making-beautiful-seams-tutorial.html
It took a long time for me to get the seaming right because I hated doing it. Now it’s the best part of the project when everything comes together.
Photos of a silk summer top and the brown one is my central park hoodie.
http://flickr.com/photos/76659668@N00/?saved=1
I made the Jawbreaker Cardigan and love this sweater! And I liked seaming it, too! Here is a link to my blog entry: http://graceknitsalot.blogspot.com/2007/02/sweater-shawl-and-socks.html#links
Mattress stitch for the side seams; I can’t remember what I did for the inset sleeve…
The tip I finally mastered: Don’t pull the seams too TIGHT. Looser makes it look so much better.
I recently needed to seam the sleeves of a Tomten jacket I started two or three years ago, in Knitpicks Palette fingering. After studying Theresa’s article in Knitty, I mattress stitched those garter stitch sleeves, and they look really good. It was the only article I saw that dealt with mattress stitch on garter stitch, in addition to the standard stockinette.
As an aside, I came across a Tomten I knit nearly thirty years ago, and out of curiosity, I looked at its sleeve seams. It was a pleasure to see how much I have learned!
I too consider my self a somewhat newbie to knitting. It amazing how far we come over the years looking backa t different projects. My tip is that I like to pin things in place as a plan so I know where I am going. Someone else mentioned not pulling too tightly and I agree! Somewhat snug is better than too tight! I loved reading everyone elses comments too!
I should have read this post before the last! I think you are so correct that it is important to perfect the mattress stitch. It makes all the difference in a nice fitting sweater. I also must say that it is important to take your time – sometimes I feel like I want to rush seaming because I want the sweater done but taking your time makes a difference. Here is a link to Cherry and my side seam.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33641702@N00/2720437773/
Seam–yup. Matress stitch, not hard. Why top down raglan? Convenience. Besides, I was making it for my 2 year old, so fit wasn’t so important.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3148/2722982562_ebedd4b09e_m.jpg
This is of a sweater that I’ve knit tons of times. Front & back the same shape.
When I seam, I have a set of stitch markers – the kind that clip on. I “baste” the seam with the stitch markers at intervals of about and inch and a half. The markers are easily removed and, since they clip in place, they do not fall out unless removed – helpful when there is an inquisitive six-year-old who likes to help in the house!
Using the markers keeps my seams matched up so one side does not suddenly get “longer” than the other when the two sides are really the same number of rows (I always measure by number of rows rather than inches). It makes a mattress stitch very quick and easy.
The other big tip is always use a big long piece of yarn to seam. Even longer than you think you will need. A time or two of discovering that the yarn you are using to seam is too short will make you a believer.
The third tip is that you don’t have to use the same yarn you knit with to seam in mattress stitch. The yarn you use will be invisible. So, if you are working with a yarn that breaks easily or is uneven (I’m looking at you, Noro), use a similar color of something strong like Cascade 220 or Cotton-Ease or whatever you have on hand. If you are seaming a chunky garment, use a worsted yarn for a less bulky seam.
I have to admit that I used to hate the mattress stitch, and I have my boss, Allison, from the yarn shop where I work on Saturdays, for forcing me to learn… she walked me through it the first time about a year and a half ago, then I relied on photo tutorials til it became second nature. I totally agree that seaming garments adds a stability and shape that is missing otherwise… it also allows for more shaping options that a simple top-down raglan. Here is a link to the last garment I seamed, though I will be working on one later tonight: http://www.flickr.com/photos/34065000@N00/2868443821/
My mitered squares were done with mattress stitch. I found it really hard to get it going but once I got it lined up right, its not that bad!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/slam889/2917224188/in/set-72157607467951900/
One trick I use that helps me quite a bit: after pinning or using markers or whatever to anchor the two seams together slip something under the seam to create a smooth surface underneath. I will frequently just slip a piece of paper under the seam. This helps insure that I’m not accidentally grabbing the underside of something and helps me actually see the stitches better.
I don’t have any seams to show you because I haven’t been brave enough to invest the time into something as involved in a sweater and come up with a blob of yarn that doesn’t fit.
However, when I do get around to knitting that sweater, it won’t be top down. Unless you can top down without raglan sleeves.
Raglan sleeves just don’t do justice to We of the Narrow Shoulders. Our breed needs that shoulder seem to add just a bit of visual shoulder. Especially if we’re carrying a few extra pounds. Narrow the shoulders and the pear below grows.
I was just sewing up this project last night and realized, hey, a mattress stitch seam — let’s take a photo! Here’s a link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/22375542@N05/3057135551/
It’s all in twisted stockinette, so it looks a little different. The trickiest bit for me is seaming that bit of seed stitch at the bottom neatly.
A picture of me seaming? Here you go: http://chappysmom.typepad.com/.shared/image.html?/photos/uncategorized/2007/06/09/img_4810.jpg
And, tips? Take your time, don’t tighten too much because that makes it pucker, and be careful to stay in the same row/column so that your seam is straight!
Posting my seams right now!
Ooops — forgot to say that they are on my blog! Favorite tip is to seam with good light!
I really like seaming, and I agree with you that seamed sweaters have better shape and better fit than those without seams. Although I don’t mind doing mattress stitch, my preferred method of seaming is to crochet my seams. This method has gotten some bad knocks from Montse Stanley, who thinks these seams are bulky, but other skilled knitters (Jean Frost) use them. They can be blocked out to be extremely flat.
I posted a tutorial on crocheted seams when I was a new blogger, and the photos leave something to be desired, but you can see the method here:
http://primetimeknitter.typepad.com/prime_time_knitter/2007/02/the_joys_of_fin.html
Here is an example of how perfect and invisible you can make the seam (bottom picture):
http://primetimeknitter.typepad.com/prime_time_knitter/2007/10/rhine-beckons.html
I swear by Lucy Neatby’s “Taking the Chequered Flag: Finishing in Style!”. Until I got this booklet, I always dreaded seaming, but this
book has saved me a lot of aggravation ever since.
I know there are lots of free, on-line guides, but I’m old school – I like to work with my instruction book open in an area where I can lay everything out easily. I still use Janet Szabo’s “The ‘I Hate to Finish Sweaters’ Guide to Finishing Sweaters” – it’s a classic! My mattress stitch seams were not just improved, they were magically transformed the minute I started following her diagrams.
I so love to see your beautiful knitting! I’ve been knitting for only a few years and have never knit an adult sweater yet! I did make a Baby Surprise Jacket and following Theresa’s tips on Knitty were very helpful…but I still need some practice and confidence!
Gracias,Bruny
“Would any knitter say she refrains from casting on because her cast-on stitches are sloppy and uneven? Well . . . um . . . no, since that attitude would surely limit the number of things you can knit.”
lol As my DH says: “Quitting greatly reduces your chances of success.”
Here’s the photo of my first mattress stitch EVAH. It’s the Ottobre Designs Soaker.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b313/Andalee/Blog/100_1576.jpg
I followed the instructions here: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring04/mattress.html
Hope this helps someone.
)
I think one reason people prefer top-down, seamless knitting for garments has been overlooked here: the purl stitch.
Many people knit faster than they purl. Also, in my case, my hand fatigues faster when purling than when knitting. (I knit English, not Continental). Knitting any portion of stockinette stich in the round eliminates a whole heck of a lot of purling, and dramatically speeds up my knitting. Also, it minimizes rowing out, for people who have problems with it.
Seamed set-in sleeve garments may fit some people better than raglans, but I’ve actually found that I have a slightly unusual shoulder configuration, so that knitted-to-directions set-in sleeves somehow hit below the point of my shoulders, giving a faux dropped shoulder impression.